Preventing Unwanted Behaviors in Your Cat

Preventing troublesome behaviors requires some planning and a effort but is usually far easier than fixing them later. Let's review some of the most important factors that affect behavior, both good and bad.

Good health care and nutrition are essential—disease, pain, nutritional deficiencies, certain food ingredients, and medications can all create stress and fear that negatively affect behavior. Exercise, both physical and mental, is also important for reducing stress and promoting good emotional health. And basic training and socialization are critical for directing intelligence and curiosity in acceptable directions (see Using Positive Reinforcement to Train Your Cat).

Stress and Fear

Cats are creatures of habit. They find change stressful and even frightening and often react to it in ways we find undesirable. Moving to a new home can be upsetting, as can a change in routine. A cat might also react negatively to habitual situations or activities he finds objectionable. Too many people or pets in a household upset some cats. Confinement indoors might stress a cat who is used to going outside to wander. A cat's own physical condition can also create stress. Obesity or malnutrition, injury, surgery or other veterinary treatment, illness, and parasites can all affect a cat's emotions and behavior.

Contrary to old notions of the detached, antisocial feline, cats do form and thrive on strong emotional attachments. They appear to respond to the same stimuli that affect any social animal, including loneliness, boredom, death of a family member (human or animal), and jealousy. On the other hand, while some cats can live happily with 20 of their own kind, others prefer more solitude and react negatively to the presence of other animals.

Aggression, hiding, inappropriate elimination, excess eating or refusal to eat, obsessive self-grooming or lack of grooming, and obsessive chewing or sucking on cloth and other items can all indicate stress or fear. Your job is to help your cat behave more normally by figuring out what's bothering him. First, be sure he doesn't have a medical problem. Then, if possible, remove the stimulus. If that isn't possible, be patient and wait until your cat adjusts. In the meantime, try to minimize the effects. For instance, you might confine your cat to a room or two. If he's jealous of the dog or jockeying for position with another cat, separate them and see the suggestions for making introductions in Bringing Your New Cat Home

If you think your cat might be lonely or bored, consider adding a second cat to your family. If that's not possible or desirable in your case, be sure you spend time playing with your cat, grooming him and otherwise interacting with him. Give him an enriched environment of toys and playthings. Spend some time training him to stimulate his mind as well as his body.

If you suspect that your cat is upset about a new pet in the house or just not happy about the number of pets, try separating your pets into smaller groups that occupy different parts of the house, temporarily or, if necessary, permanently. Sometimes simply providing more vertical cat roosts—cat trees, shelves, perches—solves the problem by allowing different cats to occupy different levels and allowing your cat to get away from the dog or toddler.

Some cats develop a fear of routine elements of life—thunder, the vacuum cleaner or other noisy appliances, and outside noises such as lawn mowers. When that fear becomes excessive and irrational, it becomes a noise phobia. Cats are very sensitive to their owner's emotions, so if you're nervous during thunderstorms, your cat probably will be, too. Learning to calm yourself will help both of you. People often inadvertently reward and encourage fearful behavior, too. If you cuddle, pet, and coo to your frightened cat, you might think you're helping him, but you're actually rewarding him for being afraid. A better response is to talk to him happily and go about your business, ignoring the noise or other stimulus that frightens him.

Separation Anxiety

Separation anxiety, a condition in which a cat finds his owner's absence stressful, can cause undesirable behaviors. One symptom is inappropriate elimination, often on or near an object identified with the owner or near the door through which the owner usually leaves. The cat might also develop stress-induced diarrhea. Separation anxiety might cause a cat to stop eating, vomit, vocalize loudly, groom excessively until he has bald spots, and scratch and chew destructively. Typically, these behaviors appear 8 to 12 hours after the owner leaves home.

Successful treatment of separation anxiety requires time, patience, and effort. Many people make a fuss over their cats before they leave and when they return, but it's unlikely your kitty will follow a discourse on where you're going, how long you'll be gone, and how much you “wuv your snookie-wookums.” A more effective strategy is to ignore your cat while you prepare to leave and to leave quietly. When you get home, don't fuss over your cat and his terrible day without you. Just go about your business for 15 or 20 minutes, maybe talking to your cat but not fawning over him. Once his initial relief at seeing you subsides, you can sit down and cuddle him without rewarding him specifically for your return.

Toys and treats may also take your cat's mind off your absence. Keep a few nifty toys that he gets only when you're gone, and give them to him just before you walk out the door. You might also hide a few special tasty treats around the house. Another idea is to feed him his breakfast from one of the food-dispensing toys available from pet supply stores or from your own version made with a small cardboard box with the lid taped shut or an empty paper roll with the ends closed off. Poke treat-size holes in the sides, and partially fill the item with treats or your cat's breakfast kibble. As your cat bats it around, the treats will fall out of the container.

Many people also swear by herbal treatments as well as Touch and other alternative approaches to treatment for emotional and behavioral problems. In extreme cases of separation anxiety, when the cat appears to be in danger of hurting himself, your veterinarian might prescribe a short course of anti-anxiety medication.

Correcting Your Cat's Behavioral Problems

It's important to realize that although we might dislike something our cat is doing, our reaction doesn't make the behavior abnormal or wrong. Most behaviors that we find problematic are normal to the cat. As a result, it's our job to engineer a solution that provides for both human and feline needs and sensibilities.

If your cat's behavior takes a turn for the worse, you should first determine if he has a medical problem. Be sure to tell your vet about the problem, because behavior can be important in making a diagnosis. If you can confirm your cat's good physical health and can rule out nutritional factors, it's time to figure out why your cat is doing what he's doing. Sometimes a simple change in the environment can clear up a problem. When that doesn't work, retraining and behavior modification are needed to effect a change.

Tinkling Outside the Box

The most common problem behavior in pet cats is inappropriate elimination—soiling in the house outside the litter box. Although this behavior takes many forms, typically the cat will deposit urine or feces outside the litter box. Poor potty habits can develop in cats who have previously been fastidious, making the behavior all the more disturbing to their owners.

Medical conditions often trigger the start of house soiling. Any health problem that causes pain on elimination or that makes getting in and out of the litter box difficult or painful, can underlie the soiling behavior. Diseases and medical problems such as feline lower urinary tract disease (FLUTD); kidney or liver disease; colitis, bowel, or anal sac disease; hyperthyroidism; diabetes mellitus; arthritis; or vision problems (see Common Feline Diseases) have been known to cause behavior changes.

The stress brought on by a new routine, moving, new family members or pets, loss of a family member, and other changes can also cause house soiling. Simply providing a safe and private refuge for your cat and ensuring that some things remain “normal” can make a big difference in his stress level (see Bringing Your New Cat Home).

Sometimes the litter box itself is the problem. “Odor-reducing” boxes with lids might appeal to cat owners, but I've never had a cat who liked them. If your cat has arthritis or other aches and pains, a high-sided box might be too much of a challenge. The same goes for a small kitten. The box might even be too small—your cat should be able to turn, squat, and dig without being cramped.

Cats can be picky about the litter in their boxes as well. Perfumed or heavily scented litters or a residual odor in the box from soap or detergent can repel some cats. The texture of a particular litter can also be a problem. (For more on cat litters, see Using Positive Reinforcement to Train Your Cat) The amount of litter in the box might influence your cat's behavior. Some cats like only a little litter; others want more of it. Some cats don't like litter at all, or like it for one “number” but not the other. If your cat is choosing to go on smooth surfaces (bare floors, sinks, bathtubs), try offering an empty litter box. Some cats dislike plastic litter box liners, too.

The location of the litter box can be a problem. Cats don't like to eliminate where they eat and drink (who does?), so putting the litter box too near food and water might cause your cat to seek other “facilities.” Most cats also prefer a location where they don't feel vulnerable to other pets, although the box should be reasonably accessible. If you have more than one cat, you should provide more than one litter box—at least one per cat. If you have the space, you might try placing two or more litter boxes in different spots around the house to see if location makes a difference.

Cleanliness can also be a factor—many cats dislike what they regard as “dirty bathrooms,” and some cats need two boxes—one for pee, one for poop. Some cats don't like to use a box that has been used by another cat.

If your cat has pottied outside the litter box, it's critical that you remove all trace of urine or feces odor because those scents label the area as the “bathroom.” Remember, your cat has a great nose, so even if you can't detect an odor, your kitty might. Neutralize surface-level urine odors with a 50-50 mix of white vinegar and water or with enzyme-based cleaners that remove organic odors. If the urine has soaked through to the pad or subfloor, however, you might have to replace the carpet and pad and clean and seal the underfloor.

Whatever you do, don't punish your cat for inappropriate elimination. Rubbing his nose in it, hitting him, or yelling at him will simply increase his stress. He'll learn to be more secretive about where he potties, and he will lose his trust in you. Positive approaches to changing his behavior will get you farther, faster. Here are some additional suggestions:

• Keep litter boxes clean.
• Take your cat to the litter box after meals or playtime, and if she uses it, reward her with a treat and praise.
• After deodorizing the area, feed your cat where he was pottying inappropriately, at least temporarily. Most cats won't potty where they eat.
• Discourage your cat from visiting the area by closing a door, using repellants (sprays, motion detectors, scat mats), or providing unwelcoming surfaces (plastic sheets, aluminum foil, double-sided sticky tape, or carpet runners placed upside down with spikes or nubs up).
• When you can't supervise her closely, confine your cat to a small room or even a kitty cage with water, bedding, toys, litter box, and food if you free feed. When she uses the litter box reliably in the small space, gradually let her into other parts of the house unsupervised.
• If you see your cat going or preparing to go (usually by digging) outside the litter box, say “No!” or use a remote correction to disrupt the behavior. Then take him to the litter box.

Spraying

Although all cat pee is pretty much the same to most people, to your cat, there's a big difference between urinating to relieve a loaded bladder and spraying urine onto vertical surfaces to proclaim ownership of territory and things. Intact males and cats who live in multi-cat households are most likely to spray.

Prevention is the best solution to spraying, and the best prevention is neutering. Very few cats who are neutered before 6 months of age ever have the urge to spray. If other cats wander through or near your yard, block your cat's view to reduce his urge to post “no trespassing signs.” To reduce stress establish a routine so he knows when to expect food and clean litter, and keep his litter box(es), bowls, scratching post, bed, and whatnot in the same places. If your cat isn't fond of guests, put him in a quiet room when you have company.

If you have more than one cat, encourage your clowder to get along so they see themselves as “family.” You can promote mutual grooming, a terrific bonding activity, by wiping them both with a damp cloth. Feed them near one another, play with them together, cuddle them together, and encourage them to sleep together. If they don't see one another as competitors, they'll be less inclined to spray.

If your cat has already started to spray, getting him to stop will be a challenge. Clean the area thoroughly and remove all trace of urine odor. Keep him away from the spot until the habit is broken. If you can't keep him away with a physical barrier, try a repellant made specifically to discourage cats. (First be sure you can tolerate the smell of the repellant!)

Biting and Scratching

Cats can and sometimes do display aggression toward people. It's unpleasant and potentially dangerous to live with an aggressive cat, so let's look at some of the causes of aggressive behavior as well as some potential solutions.

As with other behavior problems, the first step in dealing with aggression is to rule out a physical problem. If your cat is ill or in pain, touching or disturbing her can trigger defensive aggression. Even a healthy cat can occasionally get cranky because of acute pain—if you've ever accidentally stepped on your cat's tail or toe, you know about this! If your new cat shows aggression or if your established cat suddenly turns crabby, take her for a check-up.

Fear can also bring on defensive aggression. For instance, if a cat is cornered, injured, or otherwise frightened, he might hiss, spit, swat, and bite to protect himself. Pain can trigger fear, so if your cat appears irrationally fearful, see your vet. Similarly, if you startle your cat, especially when he's asleep, his first response will often be a defensive one.

Petting can occasionally trigger a bite. Some vets and behaviorists believe that the “bite to the hand that pets” phenomenon, which most cat lovers have experienced at some time, might be due to irritation or even pain brought on by repetitive petting. (Imagine shaking hands with someone who keeps on shaking until you can't stand it anymore. You might not bite, but I bet you'd want to!) It's also important to realize that some cats just don't like to be cuddled or petted.

If you've ruled out physical problems, then it's time to manage and hopefully change the behavior. First, try to determine what triggers the aggression. If a particular person or pet causes your cat to bare his claws, see if you can figure out why. Is the dog pushy? Does your son clomp around in big clunky shoes? Sometimes even a simple change—training the dog to leave the cat alone or having your son change his shoes in the house—can fix the problem. Also consider general stress or change in the environment. Have you moved recently, put in new carpet, -changed the furniture around, or added a new family member?

You might be able to stop your cat's aggressive behavior through counterconditioning, a technique in which you offer a reward for the behavior you want and ignore the unwanted behavior. For instance, if your cat reacts aggressively to being picked up, start by simply touching him while he's on the floor and simultaneously giving him a treat. When he's relaxed with that (which might take several encounters), up the ante a little by running your hand down his side, still giving him a treat. Then get your hand under his belly without lifting him. Work from there to lifting up on his belly but without raising his paws off the floor, then lift him just a little, then a little more, and so on. Be patient, and don't try to push him too quickly. The key to success is not to pass his tolerance limit. At the first sign he might be getting cranky, back off slightly. Stay at that level until he's relaxed and comfortable with the stimulation, then proceed again slowly. This approach will take a while, but the results will be more dependable than any attempt at a quick fix.

Remember, above all, that the first priority when dealing with an aggressive animal is to keep others—human and animal—safe. An angry or frightened cat can cause a great deal of damage with those sharp teeth and claws, so don't take chances with yourself, other people, or other pets. If your cat poses a danger during the normal course of household activity, seek help immediately from a qualified behaviorist who can evaluate the behavior and develop a treatment plan. Be aware, too, that among cats—as among people—an occasional individual might be mentally unbalanced and beyond treatment. If all other options fail, or if you cannot be certain that the cat won't injure someone (especially a child), the kindest and most loving solution may be to release the cat from his demons through humane euthanasia.

Destructive Scratching

Cats scratch to sharpen their claws, and to mark objects with their scent. Your job is to encourage your cat to scratch and mark “legal” objects—scratching posts and similar items—and discourage them from marking and shredding drapes, furniture, carpets, and other off-limits items. You can't completely prevent your cat from scratching—even declawed cats go through the motions to apply scent. But you can teach your cat to scratch only certain objects.

Be sure the scratching post is convenient, preferably near your cat's favorite sleeping spot. Many cats like to scratch when they wake up, perhaps to refresh their scent. Your cat will return to the spots that already carry his scent, so it's important to get her to scratch the post, marking it as hers.

If your cat just won't use his scratching post, try a different type. When he does use the proper place, praise him and, at least at first, give him a little treat. Positive reinforcement is very effective (see Using Positive Reinforcement to Train Your Cat).

Another option that works well for some cats is soft plastic covers that slide onto the cat's claws to prevent her from using them destructively (see Your Cat's Claws).

Excerpted from The Complete Idiot's Guide to Getting and Owning a Cat © 2005 by Sheila Webster Boneham, Ph.D. All rights reserved including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form. Used by arrangement with Alpha Books, a member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.

To order this book visit the Idiot's Guide web site or call 1-800-253-6476.