
Adopting a kitty who needs a home can be a rewarding experience for both of you. As an adopter, you'll know you've helped save a life and gained a best friend in the process. And cats who have lost their homes seem to understand and appreciate their good fortune when they do find new loving families.
Wonderful cats of all ages are waiting in animal shelters. Some have been turned in by their owners for reasons discussed earlier, and others were found wandering as strays. Shelters vary widely in their policies and practices. Some are funded publicly; some privately. Some accept any animal in need but must limit the time allowed each animal before resorting to euthanasia to make room for others. “No-kill” shelters, do not euthanize animals to make room, but they do turn away animals they think will be difficult to place.
Many shelters offer discount coupons for spaying and neutering adopted animals at local veterinary clinics.
Shelter staff are usually dedicated and caring people, but their knowledge and ability to assess individual animals varies. Before you adopt, find out how the cats are evaluated, who does the evaluation, and what is included. Some shelters have all incoming cats examined by a veterinarian and checked for parasites. Some evaluate the cat's temperament and behavior and keep information about the cat's history in his previous home if it's available. But many shelters lack the resources to provide such services and have to get by with minimal evaluations.
Observe the physical environment. If the shelter doesn't seem clean or the cat's health seems questionable, be cautious. If you've fallen in love with a particular cat, consider taking him to your veterinarian for an exam and possibly for quarantine before you take him home, especially if you already have a cat.
To adopt a shelter cat, you'll have to complete an application, and you'll probably have to wait a few days before taking your cat home so your information can be verified and you will have time to reflect on your decision before making the final commitment.
The next step will be to choose your kitten or cat. A walk through the adoption area can be overwhelming—there are just so many cats in need of homes. You can't take them all (really, you can't!), so before you go, make a list of the traits you want and the traits you don't want. Your list will keep you on track.
Cats don't always appear at their best in the stressful environment of a shelter. Many become agitated, quiet and depressed, or just plain scared. If you see a kitty you think you might like, ask if you can take him to a quiet place where you can interact with him. Sit quietly, talk to him softly, and see what happens. If you have children, explain that the cat is afraid. Kids are usually sympathetic, quiet, and gentle when they understand that an animal is frightened. If they're too young to understand, meet the cat without the little ones at first.
Rescue refers to individuals and groups who take in and foster cats (and other animals) and then place them in new homes. Rescuers are nearly always unpaid volunteers. They give their time, knowledge, and cat-handling skills because they love cats. Some cat rescue groups accept any kind of cat; others are devoted to a single breed.
Rescue organizations need volunteers. You don't have to handle cats to help—there are lots of other jobs you could do, from making telephone calls to fund-raising to bookkeeping. If you'd like to help the rescue effort for a few hours a month, contact a group to see where you might fit in. (You can also search the Internet for “cat rescue” or “rescue” plus a specific breed.)
Rescued cats tend to be older adolescents or adults, although kittens are sometimes available. Most spend time in foster care, where each cat's temperament, behavior, and needs are assessed in a household environment. Rescued cats are generally given physical examinations, and potential adopters are advised about possible health problems. All reputable rescuers require that every cat be spayed or neutered before it is placed or soon afterward. Good rescue organizations will not place a cat with a history of behavioral problems unless they believe the problems are resolved. Ask what the policy is on these issues.
If you want to adopt a rescued cat, you will be asked to complete an application, provide references, and allow a volunteer to visit your home. The rescuers aren't just nosy—they want to ensure a good match. When you adopt, you'll sign a contract and pay an adoption fee. Many adopters make an additional donation to help support the group's work. They'll also give you information about your cat and, if she's a purebred, about the breed.
Most rescue groups provide post-adoption support. Rescuers love to hear from adopters—knowing that a cat they saved is doing well and making someone happy is their main reward.
You might see kittens or a cat advertised in a newspaper or on a bulletin board. Sometimes you can find a terrific pet this way, but proceed with caution. If you're looking at an adult cat, ask the questions outlined earlier in this article. If you're looking at kittens, be sure they've been handled and socialized. Most people won't keep the kittens until the ideal 12 to 16 weeks, and a 7- to 8-week-old kitten might do okay, but adopting very young kittens carries risks (see Choosing a Kitten).
Keep in mind that people who don't bother to have their female pets spayed and who have litter after litter to give away are unlikely to provide proper health care, nutrition, and socialization to the kittens. If you want to avoid supporting irresponsible breeding, look for someone who took in a pregnant cat or who has spayed or will soon spay the pet who was accidentally bred.
Sometimes the most wonderful cat just strolls into your life. One of the best cats we ever had was Leo, an orange tabby someone found and brought to my vet's office. It was love at first sight. Rescuing a cat from life on the streets can be very rewarding, even if you don't keep him yourself.
Remember, even if you take the cat to a shelter, you might have saved her from terrible things, including starvation, poisoning, mauling by other animals, cars, and cruel people. Our world is neither friendly nor safe for stray animals.
A humane trap is a wire cage with a spring-loaded door. You put bait—food—inside the trap, and when the animal enters to get the bait, the door closes behind him. Many veterinarians and animal shelters have humane traps available for rent.
Be very careful when trying to catch or handle a cat you don't know, and call for trained help if necessary. Don't reach for a cat who hisses, bares his teeth, arches his back, or otherwise warns you off. If he threatens to bite, believe him. If you're not used to handling frightened cats or if you're not sure you can handle or confine the cat safely, leave him alone. Go for knowledgeable help or get a humane trap. Don't take foolish chances.
Some stray cats will come to you or allow you to approach them. That certainly simplifies matters, but be careful—you do not want to be holding a cat who panics. Trust me—cat bites and swipes hurt! A panicky cat can also inflict serious, permanent injury. If possible, use a cat carrier to confine the cat securely, especially if you plan to transport him in your car. You definitely don't want a frightened cat bouncing around while you're driving.
Microchips occasionally migrate down the neck or leg, so if you're scanning a cat for a microchip, be thorough.
Of course, that stray might have a frantic owner looking for him. Check his collar for tags. If he doesn't have a name tag, you might be able to trace the owner through a license or rabies tag. If the cat has no tags, have him scanned for a microchip if possible. Most animal shelters, rescue groups, and veterinarians have scanners to read microchips. If you find a microchip, check with the registries to locate the owner.
If you've found a cat who has no identification, you can place a found ad in the local newspaper (they're often free), post signs, read the lost ads, and watch for lost-cat posters. Give out only enough information to avoid irrelevant calls. Withhold some identifying information—eye color, coat length, or sex, perhaps—and make the person claiming the cat identify the cat to your satisfaction. Ask to see photos and veterinary records to prove ownership.
Feral cats are domestic cats gone wild. Those who were born feral might never have been handled by people and might even have been victims of actions meant to scare them away or hurt them. Some can be re-domesticated with time and patience, but others, especially adults who have been feral all their lives, might never be reliable pets.
Feral cats have sharpened their wits just to survive, and they can be very hard to catch. If you do manage to catch one, keep in mind that he's probably frightened and he's lived by defending himself with fang and claw. Unless you're experienced handling uncooperative cats, take him to a shelter, rescuer, or veterinarian who has the experience and equipment to manage the situation.
Kittens born to a feral cat can be a challenge (see Choosing a Kitten). If the kittens have been brought into a human environment while they're still very young (preferably before 3 to 4 weeks old) and handled frequently by people, they will probably adjust to domestic life. But older feral kittens who have not been handled can be very difficult as pets.
Excerpted from The Complete Idiot's Guide to Getting and Owning a Cat © 2005 by Sheila Webster Boneham, Ph.D. All rights reserved including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form. Used by arrangement with Alpha Books, a member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.
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