Kitty-Proofing Your Home

Many kittens and adult cats love to perch up high, squeeze into small places, run, pounce, and play with all sorts of things. All these actions are based on instincts that help your cat's wild relatives survive. In a human environment, though, normal feline behavior can get a cat into trouble.

Cats aren't born knowing what's allowed and what's off limits in the human world. We have to teach them and protect them. Prevention is the best protection, and you can accomplish it in two ways: by kitty-proofing your home and by confining your kitty when you can't supervise him until you know he's reliable.

Kitty-proofing is a lot like child-proofing, except that kitties are smaller, faster, and better climbers than toddlers and young children and they have much sharper teeth and claws. How long you'll have to kitty-proof your home depends on the individual cat and the specific precautions. Some temptations are too much to resist, even for an adult cat.

Move breakables out of reach. If you have tablecloths or runners just begging to be climbed or pulled, remove them until you're confident your cat will leave them alone. Move houseplants out of reach, too—some kitties will chew leaves and dig in the dirt. Remove other potential hazards from reach as well. Pins, razor blades, cigarette butts, nylon stockings, chocolate, medicines, yarn—none of these are good for a curious cat.

Take a look at your home from a feline perspective. Get down on your hands and knees and check under and behind furniture and in small spaces that might attract an inquisitive cat. Shield electrical and telephone wires in protective sheaths (available in hardware and home stores) or with PVC pipe cut to the appropriate length. Teach your kitty what's allowed and what isn't (see Using Positive Reinforcement to Train Your Cat)..

Some foods that we take for granted and may leave within easy reach are also dangerous for cats. Chocolate, coffee, and tea can cause reactions ranging from diarrhea to seizures to death. Raisins and grapes can cause permanent—and fatal—kidney damage. Foil, plastic wrap, and strings used to bind meat can cause intestinal blockage if swallowed, and raw or leftover meats might contain dangerous bacteria or parasites.

Part of the kitty-proofing process is simply a matter of common sense. If you think something might be dangerous for your cat, it probably is. Many hazards are obvious—toxic plants, medications, cleaning supplies, etc. Others might not be. Observing these hints should help you make your home cat-safe:

• Keep toilet lids closed—a curious kitten could fall in and drown, and toilet bowl cleaners leave toxic residue in the bowl.
• Keep small objects (rubber bands, coins, pins and needles, thread, yarn, string, dental floss, and so on) where your kitty can't get them.
• Store fish hooks and fishing line out of feline reach.
• Remove loops from blind or drapery cords to prevent strangulation.
• Be sure window screens are secure to keep your kitty from falling or escaping.
• Cats love warm places—keep your cat away from open flames (candles, fireplaces, open wood stoves).
• Keep washers and dryers closed, and check inside before using.
• Keep enclosed places such as cupboards, closets, refrigerators, and freezers closed, and seal or remove doors on those that are not in use.
• Know where your cat is before using reclining chairs, sofa beds, and similar furnishings.
• Holidays bring special hazards—protect your kitty from tinsel, breakable decorations, electrical cords, and toxic foods.

Shopping for Your Cat

If you shop before your new feline friend's homecoming, you'll be able to spend the first few days getting to know each other instead of running off to the pet supply store. Here's a basic list for your shopping trip:

• Cat carrier. Many people get cat carriers (or crates) for their cats. When you need to take kitty somewhere, he'll be much safer traveling in a carrier than loose in a car or held in someone's arms. Plastic airline-approved crates offer the best protection in an accident. Carriers cost about $18 to $45 new and are available from pet supply stores, discount stores, and online. Unless you're willing to buy a larger carrier later, buy one that will accommodate the adult cat your kitten will become.
You might want to pad the bottom of the carrier. Some people use towels, but be cautious—tiny claws can easily snag on terry cloth, and kittens and cats sometimes swallow loose strings, which can lead to serious problems. Special pads are available for carriers, or a small, tightly woven blanket might work.
• Collar. An adjustable flat nylon collar with a safety quick-release closure works well for a most cats. The safety release will open if the collar becomes caught—a feature that has saved more than one high-climbing feline from being hanged. Nylon collars come in a rainbow of colors and are inexpensive. Check the fit often, and readjust or replace the collar when your kitten outgrows it.
• Name tag or microchip. Provide your cat with an identification tag with your telephone number in case he gets lost. For more permanent identification, consider a microchip.
• Grooming supplies. The supplies you need will depend on the type of coat your cat has. (For more details, see Keeping Up with Your Cat's Hygiene.)
• Safe toys. Now we get to the fun shopping—toys! Choose good-quality toys, and throw them away when they develop sharp points or break. Plastic eyes, loose strings, and synthetic stuffing can injure or even kill your kitty if they're swallowed. Select toys in sizes appropriate to your cat so he can't swallow them. If you're not sure if a toy is safe, ask your veterinarian.
• Scratching post. A scratching post is essential not only to save your furniture, but to satisfy your cat's natural urge to scratch.
• Food. Commercial cat food ranges from cheap to very pricey, from questionably nutritious to superbly healthful. It's not necessary to feed your kitty the most expensive food available, but he will be healthier and you'll save on vet bills if you feed a good-quality food (see Feeding Your Cat).
• Treats. You may want some special treats, too, but please don't get carried away! Too many goodies will throw your kitty's nutrition out of balance and make yours a fat cat. Buy healthful treats, and hand them out sparingly. Avoid foods and treats full of dyes—color doesn't matter to your cat.
• Food and water bowls. Food and water bowls come in a vast assortment. Some cats are allergic to chemicals in plastic, so keep that in mind if your cat has a problem you can't identify. Be aware, too, that ceramic bowls made outside the United States might contain lead and other toxins that can leach into food and water.
• Litter box (or two) and litter. The options for kitty commodes are astonishing, from inexpensive simple flat litter pans to fancy self-cleaning systems with just-as-fancy prices. Litter, too, comes in a wide range of materials and prices. Often, simple is better. For more information.

Excerpted from The Complete Idiot's Guide to Getting and Owning a Cat © 2005 by Sheila Webster Boneham, Ph.D. All rights reserved including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form. Used by arrangement with Alpha Books, a member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.

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