Correcting Some Common Dog Problems
When your puppy or dog does something you don't like, you need to teach her not to do it. Here are three general ideas that should help you deal with most problems.
Number one: Figure out why your dog is doing what she's doing. Is she following some deep instinct bred into her for many generations? Is she bored and full of energy? Has she discovered that this behavior gets her what she wants? If she barks in her crate and you let her out, she'll try that again next time—and she'll bark longer and louder because if it worked once, it'll work again eventually.
Number two: Be sure that you're the one who's in charge. I had a Lab years ago that trained me to go get him a biscuit. I thought it was cute at first—he'd come and bark at me, I'd get up and follow him, he'd point to the dog biscuit box and bark again, and I'd deliver. Then I asked myself, “Who's training whom here?” Aha! I changed the rules of the game. If he came and barked at me, I told him “Sit” or “Down” and maybe a few other commands. Then sometimes I'd have a brilliant idea—“How 'bout a goodie?” Then I'd have him respond to another command—sometimes the ever popular “balance-the-biscuit-on-your-nose trick”—before giving him a biscuit. Other times I'd just praise and give him a belly rub. He still enjoyed the game, but I was back in charge.
If you have a dog that tends to be a little pushy, make him earn what he wants by responding to various commands. You don't have to bore the both of you with “Sit” and “Down” forever. Teach him some tricks, and have him do one. He'll be a happier dog if he's sure you're in charge.
Number three: Whenever possible, give your dog an alternative behavior to replace the one you don't like. I'll make some suggestions later for specific problem behaviors, but we can't cover everything, so hold this thought—it's much easier to teach your dog to do something than to teach her to do nothing.
Jumping on People
Believe it or not, your dog's goal in jumping on you is not to plant big, muddy paw prints on your shirt. So why does he jump up? Well, mostly because he likes you, and because you probably reward him for it part of the time by petting him, pushing him (which he sees as play), and paying attention to him.
If you really want your dog to stop jumping, you need to be absolutely consistent about not rewarding him. Never put your hands on him to push him down and then pet him—the petting is what he wants. Don't try to knee him in the chest. Unless you're more coordinated than most people, you won't connect, and if you do connect, you could injure your dog. Here are two approaches that are safe and effective if you and everyone else in the family is consistent.
One technique that works with some dogs is to completely ignore him when he's jumping. Wear old clothes for this one! When your dog jumps up, don't say a word. Fold your arms over your chest, turn your back on the dog, and look up. He may continue to try for a bit, especially if he's used to getting a more fun response from you. But eventually he'll decide that his jumping turns you into a very boring sort of person, and he'll quit. When he does quit, quietly have him sit or stand and pet him. Stay calm—you don't want to get him all excited. If he does jump up again, go into boring mode. This method requires patience from you, but it does work and is especially effective with puppies. Once your dog is convinced that jumping on you never gets him what he wants, he'll be reliable about staying off.
Another approach is to give your dog a positive command—Sit or Down—before he jumps, and reward him for obeying the command. The problem with this is two-fold. First, he has to know the command, so the technique isn't reliable with young puppies or with dogs who aren't really trained to respond to commands reliably. Second, your dog may decide that if he jumps on you, you'll talk to him and reward him—what a fun game!
Mouthing and Biting
Chew on This
Mouthing, although annoying and even painful with those sharp puppy teeth, is a normal part of puppy behavior. Growling, guarding, and aggressiveness in a puppy are something else entirely. If your puppy shows signs of aggression, speak to his breeder and to your veterinarian. Don't ignore aggression in a puppy—get qualified professional help or return the pup to the breeder.
Puppies use their mouths to explore their world. They also use their mouths to play with other dogs. It's quite normal for a puppy to try to use his mouth to play with you as well, but he needs to learn that he must never put his teeth on a person.
Here are two methods that work well with most puppies. One is to stop playing with the puppy the instant he mouths you. Just say “Ow!” and get up and ignore him for a minute or so. Then come back and play with him again, rubbing his tummy, throwing a toy for him to chase, whatever. If he puts his mouth on you, ignore him again. Many puppies will catch on very quickly. Others are more persistent. If your pup doesn't get it, don't just ignore him, but leave him completely alone for a minute or so. Then return. Again, it may take a few sessions, but if you and other members of your family are consistent and if mouthing just never pays off, he'll quit.
Aggressive biting is something else entirely. If your puppy or dog bares his teeth or snaps at you or any other member of your family, or if he guards his food, toys, bed, or anything else from you, ask your veterinarian or obedience instructor for a referral, and talk to a qualified dog trainer or behaviorist who is qualified to deal with aggression. Do not wait! Dogs don't bluff. If your dog threatens you, take him seriously, and if he bites you or anyone else, get help immediately.
Destructive Chewing
Chewing is one of the great pleasures of life for many dogs. A nice, raw knucklebone or a good, hard chew toy can be the canine version of curling up with a good book. But if your dog doesn't limit his pleasures to things he's supposed to chew, he can cause a lot of damage and even hurt himself.
Puppies in particular are champion chewers. Puppies begin to lose their deciduous (baby) teeth and get their permanent teeth when they are four or five months old. During this time, your puppy's mouth will be sore and he'll probably want to chew anything and everything to relieve the discomfort. Here are a few things you can do help him—and you and your things—get through teething:
- Give your puppy ice cubes or “soupsicles” (low-sodium chicken or beef broth frozen into ice cubes).
- Give him high-quality chew toys made for dogs.
- Give him raw carrots.
- If you feed dry food, soak his food in water for about 20 minutes before feeding him.
- When you can't watch him, confine him.
- Put anything you don't want chewed and anything that might hurt your puppy out of his reach.
Prevention is by far the best way to deal with chewing. If your puppy or dog likes to chew things and rip things up, then he should never—I repeat, never—be allowed to be loose unsupervised with access to things he might like to have in his mouth. Crate-train your dog, and confine him to his crate when you can't watch him. Give him a nice legal chew toy or bone to play with in the crate. I don't advocate locking a dog up for long hours in a crate—four hours at a time should be about the maximum. If you have to be gone longer than that on a regular basis, arrange to have someone come in during the day to let him out for a while.
When you're with your dog, keep an eye on him. If he picks up something he shouldn't have, gently take it from him while you say “Leave it” and give him one of his own toys. Be patient—it may take him a little while to learn what's his and what isn't. After all, he thinks, “your stuff all smells like you, and it's right there, and you're not using it, so maybe it's okay if I have a little chew?” Just teach him, and he'll catch on.
Pulling on the Leash
Going for a walk should be pleasant for you as well as for your dog. But there's nothing fun about being hauled down the street by a determined canine. Even a small dog can pull like crazy—and a big dog can dislocate your entire body! Besides, having control of your dog on leash is important for your safety and his.
If you're starting with a puppy, or your dog is small or reasonably easy to restrain, try the “no forward progress” approach first. When your dog starts to pull, stop in your tracks and stand still until he stops pulling. It may take him a few seconds to realize that you've stopped walking—that's okay. When he stops pulling, praise him and continue walking. If he pulls, stop. Don't worry if you don't walk too far for a few days. The important thing is to let your dog know that pulling is counterproductive.
If that doesn't work on your dog, try a little stronger version of the same technique. This time, instead of stopping in your tracks, you change directions. Set your hands together in front of your waist with the leash grasped in one hand. This will keep you from jerking your dog. The idea is for him to correct himself, not for you to pull on him. As soon as he starts to pull, turn and walk in another direction. Don't stop and wait for him, and don't say anything to him until he catches up with you. Then praise him and occasionally give him a treat. Most dogs learn quickly to pay attention to where you are, and not to pull ahead.
Chew on This
Always praise your dog when he does what you want.
Some puppies and dogs, though, are just so strong and eager to see the world that they need more control. If your dog is one of these eager beavers, consider trying a head halter or pinch collar. These training tools need to fit your dog properly to be effective, and you need to learn to use them properly. A good basic obedience class (or some private lessons with a good instructor) is the best way for you to learn about both the right equipment for your dog and about training in general.
Bark, Bark, Bark!
Barking, howling, whining, growling—it's all dog talk. Barking is a natural means of communication for a dog. A bark can be a warning, a greeting, or an invitation to play. Your dog's tendency to bark a little or a lot is partly inherited. Some breeds bark a lot; others bark very little. Your dog may also have learned that barking gets him what he wants—he barks and you let him in, let him out, feed him, talk to him, play with him. Barking becomes a behavioral problem when it goes on too long or too frequently.
Dogs become problem barkers for many reasons. The first step in controlling excessive barking is to find the reason your dog barks so much. A dog that spends too much time alone may become a problem barker, particularly if he doesn't get enough exercise. Sights and sounds in your dog's environment may trigger barking—not usually a problem unless it's too frequent or lasts too long. Dogs with separation anxiety are often problem barkers. Aggressive dogs and highly territorial dogs may bark at anyone or anything that comes near. Barking is hard to stop because it's self-rewarding. You can usually reduce nuisance barking, though, with time and effort.
If your dog seems to be barking out of boredom or to get your attention, you may be able to slow him down by giving him what he wants—on your terms, of course. Make sure he gets enough exercise every day. Take him through an obedience class. Even if he doesn't bark in class and you don't directly address the problem there, training often helps problems of all sorts. Besides, if he's lonely and bored, he'll love spending time with you in class and practicing outside of class. Don't leave your dog outdoors when you're not home. Let your neighbors know that you're trying to solve the problem. Most people will give you a little leeway if they know you're trying.
If your dog is barking to warn away intruders on “his” territory, obedience will help as well. When your dog starts to bark at someone, tell him “Down” and make sure he obeys. The down position is a submissive position and should give you control over the barking. When he's quiet, praise and reward him for “good quiet.”
Teach your dog that having people around is good for him. Have a friend walk by your yard. Have a tasty treat ready. If he stays quiet, praise him and reward him. If he barks, tell him “Down,” and when he's quiet, praise and reward. Have your friend come a bit closer and repeat the process. It may take several sessions (and several friends so that he learns that the rule applies to everyone), but eventually he should be much more tolerant of people walking near your yard. If he barks indoors, have him lie down and be quiet, and praise and reward him. Be consistent—don't encourage him to bark one time and discourage him the next.
Various types of “bark collars” are available. They work by administering a “punishment” in the form of an electrical shock, a spray of citronella (which dogs don't like) aimed at the dog's nose, or a high-pitched sound. Although bark collars may seem like an easy solution to problem barking, they don't address the cause of the barking. If your dog barks because he's bored, he may simply replace the noise with a different behavior like digging or destructiveness. If he barks to defend his territory, he may associate the shock or other punishment from the collar with the person he sees as a threat, and he may become aggressive. If he barks because he's afraid or anxious, a collar that punishes him will frighten him more.
Digging
Digging is an instinct for all dogs. Some breeds—terrier breeds and Dachshunds in particular—were bred to dig vermin and game out of holes in the ground, so they're even more eager to dig than the average dog.
One way to stop a determined digger from tearing up your whole yard is to give him his own digging range. Pick a spot for him, preferably a shady spot with loose sand or sandy soil (it's cleaner than clay or loam). If necessary, consider making him a sandbox for digging. Bury a treat or toy that your dog likes, then bring him to the spot, and when he notices the scent of the treat, encourage him to dig. You dig a little with your hands if necessary to give him the idea. Praise him when he digs, and when he reaches the treat or toy. Repeat a few times over the next few days. If you see your dog digging somewhere else, tell him “Leave it,” take him to his spot, and encourage him to dig there. He'll get the idea after a few days.
Aside from being there and stopping him, there are ways to discourage your dog from digging. Some of these methods work with some dogs but not all. If your dog tends to dig in one spot, maybe near a gate, you may be able to discourage him by filling in his hole with rocks or concrete. I stopped my dog from digging up one section of a flower garden by burying chicken wire about three inches deep. It didn't interfere with the plant roots, and my dog didn't like hitting that wire with his feet.
Some people use chemicals and other substances to discourage digging. Black pepper sprinkled on the area stops some dogs. Some people bury mothballs, but they are toxic and they don't make your yard smell too great. Several commercial products are available that are supposed to stop digging, but they don't always work, and they don't provide your dog with an alternative. If he was digging out of boredom, he'll find something else to do, and it may not be any more agreeable to you than the digging was. Retraining and redirecting energy is the best solution.
Separation Anxiety
A dog with separation anxiety becomes worried and agitated whenever she thinks her owner is going to leave. Once she's alone, she may bark or howl, salivate or even vomit, urinate and sometimes defecate, pace the floor, or become destructive.
To treat separation anxiety, you first need to make sure your dog and your belongings are safe when you're not there. Crate-train your dog, and crate her when you leave. Many dogs feel safe in their crates, and an anxious dog often feels more secure when she doesn't have to worry about where to be in the house. If you crate her with a bone or chew toy, she'll have something to do but won't cause any damage.
Teach your dog the Stay command (see Five Essential Commands for Your Dog). Have her stay for varying lengths of time while you're home with her, working up to half an hour or longer. Praise and reward her for staying and becoming relaxed. Have her spend some time in her crate while you're home, too, so that it's a safe place whether you're there or not.
Don't make a fuss over your dog when you leave or come home. That just teaches her that your absence really is something to fret about. When you're preparing to leave, put her in her crate a few minutes ahead of time to give her a chance to relax. Give her something wonderful that she gets only when you're about to leave—a hollow bone or rubber chew toy stuffed with peanut butter and kibble, for instance. Once she's crated, ignore her. When you come home, don't let her out right away—let her settle down and get used to your being home. Make your coming and going very matter of fact.
Figure out what makes your dog most relaxed and comfortable. If she likes to look out the window, place her crate where she can see out. If that seems to make her more anxious, then put her crate where she can't look out. Sometimes leaving a radio on to soft music and talk helps a dog relax. Some dogs seem happier if they have a little something of their owner—maybe an old sweatshirt with your smell on it. I had a dog that always took one of my walking shoes to his bed when I was gone. He didn't chew it; he just had it with him.
If you have to be gone long hours, consider having someone come in during the day to give your dog a break. Just having to “hold it” for 9 or 10 hours could make some dogs anxious—I know it would me! If your dog doesn't think your leaving means he'll be all by himself for so long, he may not be quite so worried.
If you can't solve your dog's separation anxiety problem, speak to your veterinarian or a qualified animal behaviorist. They can help you evaluate your dog's situation and set up a treatment plan. If absolutely necessary, you can try an anti-anxiety medication to break the cycle, but drugs are not a long-term solution.
